In the heart of Tokyo’s Otemachi district lies Taira no Masakado’s Kubizuka, a small burial mound said to hold the head of Taira no Masakado, a samurai and rebel from Japan’s Heian period (10th century). Though surrounded by modern office buildings, this historical site offers visitors a glimpse into Japan’s fascinating past and legends.
Who Was Taira no Masakado?
Lord Taira no Masakado was active during the Jōhei and Tenkei eras (931–946), pioneering samurai reforms in the Kantō region. His character—aiding the weak and defeating the strong—earned him deep trust and respect among the people.
Some 1,075 years ago, Lord Masakado, son of Taira no Yoshiaki, a fifth-generation descendant of Emperor Kanmu and commander of the provincial garrison, raised an army in Shimōsa Province. He swiftly subdued the eight provinces of the Kantō region, proclaimed himself the new Emperor, and sought to implement political reforms. However, he was ambushed by Taira no Sadamori and Fujiwara no Hidesato, fought to the death on horseback at the front lines, and perished in battle. He was thirty-eight years old. This event is known to the world as the Tenkei Rebellion.
Afterwards, Lord Masakado’s severed head was sent to Kyoto and displayed on a gallows. However, three days later, it emitted a white light, flew eastward, and fell in Shibasaki, Toshima District, Musashi Province. It is said the earth shook, the sun lost its light, and darkness fell like night. Terrified villagers built a mound and buried it. This is what is passed down as this Masakado Tumulus. Even after this, Lord Masakado’s vengeful spirit continued to cause calamities. Therefore, in the second year of the Tokuji era (939), the second patriarch of the Jishu sect, Priest Shinkyo, posthumously conferred the Buddhist name “Ren Amida Butsu” upon Lord Masakado. He erected a wooden stupa before the mound, performed memorial services at Nichirinji Temple, and further enshrined his spirit alongside the local Kanda Myojin deity. Only then did Lord Masakado’s spirit finally settle and become the guardian deity of this land.
The Tenkei Rebellion occurred during the mid-Heian period. In Kyoto, the Fujiwara clan held absolute power, reveling in their golden age. Far away in the Kantō region, provincial governors pursued personal gain, neglecting good governance. Their subordinates exploited the people, squeezing every drop of blood and sweat from them. Compounding this, floods and droughts followed one after another. The people had no food, no clothing, and their plight was beyond description. Consequently, the hopes and sympathy these powerless masses placed in Lord Masakado were immense. To this day, numerous legends and shrines dedicated to Lord Masakado remain in the Kantō region. This testifies that, though historically labeled an enemy of the court, Lord Masakado was, in truth, a local hero. Moreover, the Tenkei Rebellion served as the beacon of the samurai’s rise to prominence. It also fostered the Edo spirit of aiding the weak and defeating the strong, exerting a profound influence on contemporary society.
About the Kubizuka
- The mound is topped with a small shrine (hokora) and surrounded by stone lanterns and a hand-washing basin.
- Despite being in the middle of a bustling business district, the site itself is quiet and peaceful.
- Locals believe the Kubizuka brings protection from misfortune and promotes business success.
- The site has a mysterious reputation and is often mentioned in Japanese folklore and ghost stories.
Visiting Tips
- Treat the site respectfully, as it is considered sacred.
- Photography is allowed, but please be mindful of the shrine and other visitors.
- Located in a central office area, the Kubizuka is easily accessible by public transportation.
If you’re visiting this area, don’t miss the chance to walk around the Imperial Palace.
Taira no Masakado’s Grave is located near the Imperial Palace area, making it a perfect stop during a walk around central Tokyo.
If you’re exploring this area, you can follow a step-by-step walking route around the Imperial Palace here.
A Place Where History and Legend Meet
Taira no Masakado’s Kubizuka offers a unique opportunity to experience Japan’s samurai history within modern Tokyo. It is a small yet meaningful stop for those interested in historical legends, spirituality, or the contrasts between Japan’s past and present.
How to get this place
Address:
1-2-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Access:
From Tokyo Station: 11-minute walk from Marunouchi Central Exit
Rainy Day Alternative: Explore Inside Tokyo Station
The area around Taira no Masakado’s Grave has a unique and slightly mysterious atmosphere — which can feel even more intense on a rainy day.
If the weather changes, consider exploring some of Tokyo’s best rainy-day experiences instead.
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